Karma Sherpa, the mask maker

 

Mingyur: You’ve been making masks for many years. Can you tell me how old you were when you started learning the craft of mask-making?

Karma Sherpa (Mask Maker): I started when I was around seventeen or eighteen years old.

Q: Did someone teach you how to make masks? Who was your teacher?

A: A teacher is important for anything you want to learn—it’s always better that way. Fortunately, I didn’t have to go far to find a teacher. I was lucky, because my neighbors were all artists. One was a thangka painter, another was a carpenter, and there was also a wood artist. One of my neighbors, Meme Saila, used to say: “Stay with a smoker, and you’ll smell like smoke; stay with an artist, and you’ll get inspired.” I used to visit him often, to watch how wood was cut and measured, just to observe and learn from his experience.

Q: Who was this old man you’re referring to?

A: The old man I’m talking about was Meme Saila from Bremang. He was the younger brother of Nono’s father. Sadly, he’s no longer with us. Although he didn’t directly teach me how to carve wood or what size to cut, he always corrected me, saying things like, “It shouldn’t be like this; it should be like that.” In that way, I can call him my teacher.

Q: What was his name?

A: His name was Lama Nima Gyalbu, Meme Saila.

Q: Is there a specific type of wood used for making masks?

A: In our region, Hyolmo wood is prone to insect damage, so we mostly use rhamshyang wood. It’s light, which makes it great for crafting things like dramnyen (lutes) and masks. Masks aren’t made to be hung on walls; they’re made for performers to wear. The lighter weight of rhamshyang is preferred by mask dancers. There’s also another wood called yale, which can be used as well, and it’s found both in the north and the south.

Q: There are different types of masks. How much wood do you need to make one mask?

A: An experienced mask maker once told me that to make a mask, you need a log that’s about a foot long and at least 12 inches wide. If you have a round log that’s 24 to 30 inches in diameter, you can cut it in half and make two masks from it.

Q: Having made masks for so long, is there a difference between how masks were made in the past and how they are made today?

A: In the past, I didn’t have regular customers. When the crops failed, or when I needed extra money, I would make masks. I was born in the Year of the Monkey, so I’m around 62 now. Back then, I used to carry a sack full of masks from Hyolmo all the way to Kathmandu, to sell at the Chorten (Bodhnath Stupa). I would sell them for a modest income—about 100, 150, or 200 rupees per mask, which was enough at the time.

Q: How much does a mask cost today?

A: Now, masks cost around eight to nine thousand rupees each.

Q: How long does it take to complete one mask?

A: If I have all the materials ready, it usually takes about five days to finish one mask. But if I’m working consistently, I can complete one in four days. (laughs)

Q: Is there a specific measurement for making a mask?

A: According to the experts who came before me, and based on my own experience, I know that in Ladakh (India) there’s a handicraft training center that provides certificates to graduates. I’m not sure if something like that exists in Kathmandu, though. The older mask makers would say that the height of a mask should be about 12 inches, and the width shouldn’t exceed 11 inches. If it’s wider than that, it doesn’t quite look like a mask.

Q: I believe making a mask is a tough job. It’s a real craft. What kind of person can become a good mask maker?

A: If you’ve never seen anyone make a mask, then it’s hard to know where to start. You might have the right measurements, but without experience, you’ll struggle with details like the eyebrows, beard, teeth, and other features. You need to know how to position them correctly—whether the tongue should be turned upward, or not. It’s difficult to know without guidance. It’s always a good idea to learn from the experts, to listen to their advice, and even practice designs like flowers and leaves. With time, if you have a good eye for carving and plenty of practice, you can learn by watching and doing.

Q: Besides performances, for what other purposes are masks used?

A: The main purpose of masks is for performances, but these days, some people keep them in their chhekhang (prayer room) as decoration. For example, people who follow the Nyingma tradition might keep a mask of Chhagna Dorje (Vajrapani) in their chhekhang. When masks get old, some foreigners buy them at the market and take them abroad, though I don’t know much about that.

Q: You’ve been making masks for a long time. Do you know how many masks you’ve made so far?

A: I’ve been making masks continuously since I was seventeen or eighteen, except for a gap when I went to India. After I returned, I didn’t make many masks, but I’ve made approximately 100 to 150 masks over the years.

Q: You don’t just make masks for the sake of it. You probably get orders, right? Who are your main customers?

A: These days, businessmen and foreigners come to our village, and they seem interested in masks. But I haven’t sold masks directly to them. Some of our Hyolmo people order masks for their offices, or through friends. I’ve sent out several sets—about four or five.

Q: Do they order in groups or individually?

A: They order individually, usually.

Q: Is there a particular season for making masks?

A: There might be a busy season for businessmen, but for us mask makers, it depends on when we get an order.

Q: How did people trade masks in the past? Did they pay with money or something else?

A: As far as I remember, people used to pay in cash.

Q: How much did you get for one mask back then?

A: When I was around seventeen or eighteen, the maximum I got for a mask was 400 to 500 rupees, with the average price being about 300 rupees.

Q: What materials and tools do you use for mask-making?

A: The most important tool for mask-making is a dzong (flat chisel).

Q: So you need a dzong, wood, and a hammer?

A: Yes, a hammer and tebu (a type of knife) are essential. Tebu is used to peel the wood. I also use coal or a pencil to sketch the design. Coal is easier to rub out, so it’s better. But nowadays, with color sketch pencils available, coal is less commonly used.

Q: Where do your orders come from? Just from fellow villagers or from elsewhere too?

A: Most of the orders come from neighboring villages like Sermathang, Gangyul, and sometimes from other places. I also get orders through friends. Some mask makers charge more because of their higher skills, while others prefer to buy from me since my prices are cheaper.

Q: What are the most difficult parts of making a mask?

A: The most difficult part is when I’m sharpening the eyebrows and the beard. The excess wood has to be peeled off slowly with a sharp tool (dzong). I often cut myself while working, especially when carving finer details. I also get small wounds when working with wood or doing carpentry.

Mingyur: Thank you!

Karma Sherpa: Thank you!